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How do I know what ingredients in my glue my client is allergic/reacting to?
Written on May 3, 2024
All lash adhesives are made up of a cocktail of different ingredients as well as different grades of ingredient purity. Knowing what ingredients your client may be sensitive to can be impossible to know for both the lash artist and the client, unless that client undergoes a private allergy test. However finding a clinic that can accommodate this type of testing can sometimes prove difficult, time consuming and expensive.
Contrary to belief, it is not always the Cyanoacrylate in the adhesive which people react to (the primary ingredient in lash glue and serves as the adhesive agent), in fact, many a time it’s actually “non cosmetic grade” stabilisers that are added to most adhesives on the market and these vary from each brand.
How can allergic clients and lash artists find out what ingredient(s) they are allergic to without private allergy testing?
Clients who show an intolerance or who believe they are allergic to eyelash extensions, and want to attempt to wear lashes again MUST always seek out private testing to try to identify their intolerance. This is the safest way to identify the source of the intolerance.
However, if a client has attempted to go down this route, but this has not been viable, there may be other ways in which we may be able to test to try to find out what ingredients that person is allergic to.
Disclaimer: The method outlined in this blog is a result of consultations with allergy testing experts, devised to assist clients facing difficulties in identifying irritants or intolerances.
It is essential to emphasise that the information provided here represents a personal approach and does not imply liability for individuals attempting similar techniques. Any testing method should be thoroughly discussed with the client, including clear delineation of associated risks and disclaimers put in place before any testing commences.
Furthermore, individuals who have previously experienced “severe” allergic reactions to eyelash products, characterised by symptoms such as extreme itching, swelling, flu like systems or hospitalisation, should refrain from attempting this method under any circumstances.
Step 1:
Ask for a list of all of the ingredients as well as a copy of the material safety data sheet so that you can try to see the percentage of ingredients used. Find out where the product was manufactured, this will help to identify not only the ingredients but the grade used.
Step 2:
Use only UK or EU made lash adhesives to test. Due to strict manufacturing guidelines in these regions, you can be confident that the grade of ingredients is the highest across the globe and that independent toxicology tests will have been performed on them as well as them holding the correct safety assessments to certify the ingredients and finished product is safe. Far East adhesives usually contain low grade cyanoacrylates and stabilisers that lack purity and safety to keep prices low - this is why so many clients and lash artists react to them over time.
Step 3:
Use an adhesive with the lowest level of cyanoacrylate possible (sensitive glue) as well as containing cosmetic grade stabilisers. You will then know you are testing your client with the highest grade ingredients on the market. Topaz from my range is the perfect adhesive to test with; low levels of CA and cosmetic grade stabilisers. Find it HERE
Step 4:
Ditch all other prep, prime and post bond products unless they are UK/EU made. It’s not just lash adhesives that cause reactions due to low grade ingredients, the whole system can be the root of the intolerance but it’s the adhesive which usually gets the blame.
Step 5:
Apply 1/3 of a set ONLY to each eye. Do NOT apply a full set. We need to “test” against the ingredients, therefore we need to start off with minimal exposure only and work our way upwards if possible.
Step 6:
Apply UK/EU made Post Bonders to seal the bonds asap. If you do not have this product then post wash the lashes with distilled/sterile water to help seal the bonds.
Throughout the testing process and for up to 48 hours after, it's crucial for clients to communicate any symptoms they experience, no matter how mild. In cases of extreme reactions, prompt medical attention is necessary.
Ultimately, while this method may offer insights into potential allergens, it's essential to prioritise client safety and well-being above all else. Full transparency about the risks involved and regular monitoring of symptoms are critical aspects of this approach.
Conclusion:
The sad truth is that countless lash artists and clients have suffered needlessly due to the use of substandard products containing harmful ingredients. The repercussions extend beyond mere discomfort, leading to a global surge in allergic clients unable to enjoy lash extensions. As a result, the industry now faces the task of developing alternative solutions, such as UV acrylate free glues, to accommodate these individuals.
It serves as a poignant reminder that investing in safe products from the outset is not just a matter of preference but a fundamental responsibility to safeguard the well-being of clients and lash artists. Only by collectively prioritising safety can we mitigate the adverse effects and uphold the integrity of the beauty industry for generations to come.