For me, giving mature clients a “suitable” set of lashes is one of the most rewarding parts of being a lash artist. Far too often I see the more ‘mature” client wearing a set of extensions that is just not suitable for them: usually too long, too curly and far too bold – and actually it can make their eyes look too heavy and really age them – everything they don’t want!

The issue here, is that many artists do not understand that you have to lash mature clients very different to how we lash the younger client –  instead they just use their usual technique, the same lashes and the same style thinking one style suits all – and as we know this is not the case.

When considering the more mature client we have to consider the following:

  • Natural lashes have thinned out over the years
  • Inner and outer corner natural lashes will be much thinner
  • Natural lashes become lighter
  • Heavy hoods over the eyes may appear
  • Overall facial features have started to droop
  • Black or bold lashes will look too “OVER THE TOP”

As such here are my top tips for lashing mature clients:

  • Always go for the rounding effect, this will visually open up the eye by having the main height of the set over the pupil. The short lengths used in the inner and outer corners will protect those delicate areas and stop any drooping which will make them look tired. The rounding effect with help to cover the hooded eye. Always map your clients with them sat up and in directly in front of you. Mark on her eyelid where you want to create height, so that when the eye is closed you can map them correctly.
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  • Avoid any effect such as the Cat or Kitten – these styles draw the eyes out and on most mature clients who have a heavy, droopy, ageing eye will accentuate just this. This effect would only work on a mature client who does not have hood and has an uplifted eye which is rare as we get older.
  • Avoid Classic or Flat lashes, these are too bold for most mature clients and if using classics are usually too heavy. Some clients may be able to support the 0.12mm classic lash which is the thinnest classic lash on the marker, however as most mature clients NLs thin out and become sparse over the years, it’s unlikely a classic set in 0.12mm will give them the desired look.
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  • Volume is usually the key, to provide that soft, fluffy and extra coverage effect they require. Hand make your fans if you can, so that you have control over the width and variety of dimensions required in your set – handmade fans also have a thinner base which will bond better to their usually finer NLs. If using pre-mades, use wider pre-mades (short stem, not long stem) and look for brands that have a pointy base as some pre-mades are very T-Bar at the base. Remember to balance your set, so you may need to use wider fans in sparse areas such as the inner corners.
  • Consider the use of brown lashes – not always required if you lash the more mature client correctly but consider to offer a softer look.
  • Clear glue works well, unless that client has dark NLs. Black glue can look very obvious and spoil the look of the set.
  • Do not feather your set or work in layers to create that sharp topline effect. Usually mature clients have a low lash count, as such we do not have enough NLs in the layers to work with and any attempt to feather or create a top line effect, will on this type of client make the set look less dense. If a NL sits very high on the top layer, then of course you can drop 1mm to prevent it extending out of the topline, however if this is not the case, then lash every suitable lash in that zone with the same length drawn on the lash map – obviously anagens WILL be lashed shorter, or lighter.
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Examples of EE clients with rounding effect to open the eye or disguise the hood.

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