This is my favourite choice of adhesive, I use this on my own clients and wear myself. This offers me amazing retention and allows me to have 3 week fills, instead of my previous 1.5-2 week fills.
This is why after stringent testing I introduced this to the Eyelash Excellence shop.
- Black adhesive
- Classic and volume
- Experience Level: Advanced
- Temperature: 19-23 degrees (66-73f)
- Humidity level: 45-55%
- Cure speed: Super-fast (0.5-1 second)
This is a super-fast curing adhesive so only suitable for the Advanced tech and where levels have to be controlled to perfection.
Due to the VERY thin consistency (viscosity) of this adhesive, it can be prone to separation if used incorrectly.
TO PREVENT SEPARATION:
Dispense this adhesive onto paper tape, or Magic tape, either used on a jade stone, or in a glue ring. The thin consistency of the adhesive requires a “rough” surface to grab to, therefore if this adhesive is dispensed onto a smooth surface it will immediately separate.
Shake well – 30 secs to 2 minutes, vigorous shaking to mix the product together.
Dispense 1-2 tester ball of adhesive, discard, then dispense another for use.
Use a good sized ball – size of a small pea.
Dispense a new ball of adhesive every 10-15 minutes.
Grab a small bead of adhesive on the extension and place immediately onto the natural lash. Do NOT paint, or swipe.
Not suitable for the novice technician, or those that work slowly.
EU approved, for professional use only, contains cyanoacrylate. Use of a FFP3 carbon filter mask by the technician is recommended during use of all cyanoacrylate-based adhesives. Do not allow product to come into contact with the skin. Keep out of the reach of children.
Always patch test your client 24-48 hours prior to their treatment (check with your insurance provider)
Why do we give a working range for each adhesive?
CA (cyanoacrylate) which is the key ingredient in most adhesives requires the perfect control of both temperature and humidity in order to cure correctly.
(It’s like baking a cake – if you fail to set the oven correctly the cake will not bake)
The lower the temperature and humidity in your lashing space, the slower the cure of the adhesive will be.
The higher the temperature and humidity in your lashing space, the faster the cure of the adhesive will be.
Failure to control “both” your temperature and humidity will render your glue useless.
If you work outside of the levels suggested on the website, then you will likely find that the adhesive will not work, so poor grab, failure to cure, client’s will lose lashes very quickly etc.
Watch this video for more information: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdOUw4OYjcc
What adhesive suits me?
Every lash artist will work at a different speed and in a different environment (different temperature and humidity levels), as such it is impossible for there to be one adhesive that suits all.
Therefore, the artist will always have to work by “trial and error” to find an adhesive that suits their personal working environment and their clients – (some client’s lashes are dry, some oily) as such it can never be one glue suits every client. Of course, it is a pain to have to purchase multiple adhesives, but it is the only way to find out which adhesive suits you or your client.
This is the reason why we at Eyelash Excellence offer a wide range of adhesives and not just one, so that we can provide adhesives to suit every artist.
My adhesive is taking too long to cure, what should I do?
Simply increase your temperature and humidity to speed up the curing process.
My adhesive is curing too quickly, what should I do?
Simply decrease your temperature and humidity to slow down the curing process.
Why are my volume fans closing?
Volume lashing requires the use of a super-fast “volume adhesive” such as Sapphire or Ruby. Slower curing adhesives will not cure quick enough, as such the fan will close.
Volume fans MUST be held in place from 3-8 seconds to allow the fan to set and start the initial cure – early release of the fan will result in it closing.
Volume adhesives are extremely temperamental, as such “perfect” control of both temperature and humidity is paramount.
What does cure speed mean in seconds?
This is just a guide, to assist “only” in understanding the average cure time from when you place the extension onto the natural lash to it starting the set cure (when the extension is set in place)
Cure speeds assist only in helping the lash artist choose the correct glue for their lashing speed and experience level and should in no way be taken as the exact guide of set times for the extension.
If you grab a larger bead of adhesive then your extension will take longer to cure, whereas if you grab a seamless amount your extension will cure quicker.
As such cure times can only “assist” and can never be taken as an exact set cure time.
We always recommend that you allow at least 3 seconds for the classic extension to cure before releasing it and at least 6 seconds for volume fans to ensure that fan does not close.
Why is my adhesive not working on my mannequin head?
If you are practicing on a mannequin head, you will always find that your adhesives will be very slow curing. This is because practice lashes are made from PBT and hold no moisture unlike real lashes. Therefore, when attempting to practice they will not grab, unless you use our fastest adhesive Ruby and use an accelerator.
Should I purchase an adhesive to suit my lash room’s natural temperature and humidity levels, or set my levels to suit the adhesive I am using?
You MUST always set your room levels to suit the adhesive you are using, never the other way around.
CA is very temperamental, as such we must always provide it with the levels it likes to work best at.
When we bake a cake, we always set the oven to suit that cake mixture, so adopt this understanding whenever you work with eyelash adhesive.
Can I work with just one adhesive?
Most experienced artists have 2-3 adhesives that they work with, each to suit whether they are classic or volume lashing, as well as the client they are working on at the appointment. It is very rare that one adhesive suits that artist alone as well as all of their clients.
How long do my adhesives last?
Stored unopen in the fridge, they will last up to 6 months. Once opened the recommended shelf life is 5-7 weeks, however if that glue is not used every day then most will last up to 3 months. Opened bottles should be stored upright, in an airtight container, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight.
Adhesive that has ‘gone off’ will usually take on a stringy consistency (with the exception of our oil resistant adhesive) or will not grab onto the NL.
I have just started working with a new adhesive that is unfamiliar to me, it does not grab or cure like my other adhesive, it must be off or bad right?
It is very rare for adhesives to be off or bad. They are made in large batches, as such if one adhesive is reported to be off/bad then whole batch will be, and the supplier will be inundated with complaints.
Adhesives also travel really well around the globe and very rarely become compromised unless left in extreme environments of hot or cold for a long period of time (which is rare due to their express delivery times). As such it is unlikely that it has gone off – if it has it will usually show signs of a stringy consistency or a grey/separated appearance.
When working with a new glue, you must understand that it will work and perform very differently from your existing adhesive, therefore you can never compare the two and instead learn how to work with that new glue differently and understand that to start off with you may have both application and retention issues with that adhesive.
Should I shake my adhesive?
Always shake your adhesive at the start of your lash appointment, removing the lid and placing folded up paper wax strip over the nozzle. If you shake your adhesive with the lid on, then adhesive will travel up the nozzle and stick your lid to the nozzle.
Always burp your adhesive after dispensing to remove trapped air from the nozzle.
How should I store my adhesive?
Store unopened bottles in the fridge. Opened bottles should be stored upright, in an airtight container, at room temperature and out of direct sunlight. Once opened never put your adhesive back in the fridge, this can compromise the adhesive.
How often should I change my adhesive dot?
For optimum performance always refresh your adhesive every 15- 20 minutes with a brand new dot.
Why are my clients lashes not lasting?
There are always soooooooo many reasons why you may be having retention issues on your clients and most of the time it can be impossible to ever really get to the bottom of it.
Sadly, most artists are very quick to blame the adhesive where as 99% this is not the case.
Most retention issues are caused by the following:
- Failing to control temperature and humidity
- Not refreshing your adhesive often enough
- Too little adhesive used
- Incorrect attachment
- Not working quick enough for that adhesive
- Extensions too long or too heavy for the NL
- In correct preparation of the lashes or using non-lash products
- Oily clients
- Clients failing to follow aftercare correctly
- Clients using high strength creams, hair products, heavy makeup etc.
- Clients taking oily supplements for skin and hair
- Clients sleeping on their faces – although they will rarely admit this.
This list could go on, but it is always important to work through the list before blaming the adhesive.
What should I do if after trouble shooting, I still think my adhesive is bad?
Always contact the supplier, they will then work with you and ask lots of questions to see if they can get to the bottom of it. Do not be offended by the questions they ask, they are simply trying to assist to see if there is an obvious solution.
99% the time, your supplier does not know you personally, or how you work, as such they will need to ask lots of question to try to understand why you are having issues with the adhesive. They will then work back and forth with you, so they can gain as much information on the problems you are having. If need be they will ask for the glue to be sent back for testing, as well as construct a detailed report to send to their manufactures.