If you have ever had a client with lots of eyelid and brow space, then you may have found that eyelash extensions struggle to show on them. You may have used the same mapping that you used on another client and the effect was beautiful, however on your client with lots of lid and brow space the extensions were hardly noticeable leaving you confused as to why.
So what do we mean when we say “lots of lid and brow space?” Our below visual will assist:
From the image above, you can see how this client has a large eyelid as well as lots of space from the eyelid crease and up towards the eyebrow. Now that we understand what we mean, we can move on to discussing how we best apply eyelash extensions to this type of client .
Space……we have lots of it to “play with” on this type of eye shape, therefore we need to consider how we are going to cover this space and make the eyelash extensions look noticeable.
Curls: Strong curls are best suited to this eye shape. By strong curls we mean the following” D/L/M curls. These curls lift upwards and will cover this space, compared to flatter curls such as the B/C curl which extend outwards and not upwards.
Styling: Lots of length is required when considering the lash map used. We have lots of eyelid extending from the inner eye to the outer, therefore the style we use has to cover all of this space. Choosing the Dolly effect on this type of eye shape is always favourable and seems to work best due to the lengths used across the main section of the eye, see below:
If you look at the image above, you will see that the very inner and outer sections are always kept short. This not only protects the delicate lashes that naturally grow here, but helps to create a contrast between short and long lengths.
For example: Correct Dolly lash map inner to outer: 6/7/8/9/10/11/12/11/10/9/8 – see how the inners start with a 6mm and the outers finish with 8mm (this could be 7/6mm if you desire). Whatever the lash map we chose we always start and finish with short lengths.
Many lash artists get this style wrong by using the following lash map 9/10/11/12/11/10 – the mistake here is that firstly the inners and outers are too long, so damage and twisting can happen, but also when there is only 3mm difference between the shortest and longest length used (9-12mm) the set looks flat. I.e there is no shaping from where short extensions such as 6mm up to 11/12mm are used and we see the graduation of lengths as we transition up through 5/6 different lengths compared to only 3.
See below for a correct example of a Dolly lash map:
Below we have also included a visual image to show you the difference between the Kitten and Dolly effect on this type of eye shape. Although both look “ok” on this model who has naturally balanced features, you will see how the Kitten effect exposes the inner eye lid compared to the Dolly effect where the shaping covers all of the eye lid and suits this eye shape better.
Styling is always subjective so when it comes to personal opinions there is never really a correct or incorrect way to style your salon clients. However from a technical aspect, this is how we teach to help correctly style this type of eye shape.