When it comes to which eyelash extensions my students need to use on their models, one of the key questions is: “What thickness should I use?”. My answer is always the same: there is no one thickness that is right for every client, or even every natural lash.
I have spent years working with different natural lashes, extension diameters, lengths and techniques. One of the biggest lessons I have learned is that beautiful lash extensions should never come at the expense of the natural lashes underneath. In my opinion, one of the most important skills a lash technician can develop is understanding lash extension weight and knowing when an extension is simply too heavy for the natural lash. One of the main reasons that students occasionally need to re-do a model's set to ensure they pass their case study, is due to not using the right lashes for that particular person's NL.
What does lash extension thickness actually mean?
When we talk about the thickness, or diameter, of an eyelash extension, we are talking about how fine or thick that individual extension is. You may hear lash extensions referred to by measurements such as 0.03mm, 0.05mm, 0.07mm, 0.10mm, 0.12mm, 0.15mm and 0.18mm. However, the number on the tray is only part of the story.
The correct extension needs to be selected according to the strength, thickness, length and condition of the client's natural lash, as well as the lash style we are trying to create. This is why simply reaching for a thicker extension because you want a darker or more dramatic result isn't always the right approach.
Why shouldn't we overload the natural lash?
This is something I am very passionate about, because, yes, I want my clients to get 'the look' they want, but educating them on why we sometimes need to tweak their preferences is really important.
Every natural eyelash has a limit to how much weight it can comfortably support. If we attach an extension that is too heavy, too long, or create a fan that is too large for that particular natural lash, we are placing unnecessary stress on it. It's better to explain this and do the best set for that individual, rather than do exactly what they want and cause issues down the line. This is why more isn't always better.
As lash artists, our job isn't simply to create the darkest, longest or most dramatic lashes possible. Our job is to create beautiful eyelash extensions while respecting the natural lashes we have been trusted with. When a lash extension is too heavy for the natural lash, you can potentially see problems such as premature shedding, poor retention and stress on the natural lash. And, perhaps most importantly, the client may end up with lashes that don't look as beautiful as they could.
A well-designed set should look balanced, comfortable and flattering, rather than overloaded. This brings me on to explain the importance of matching the right extensions to the natural lash and this is where experience and education really matter.
Before applying an eyelash extension, I want to look at the natural lash in front of me.
- Is it fine?
- Is it strong?
- Is it short?
- Is it already carrying an extension?
- Is it suitable for the length and diameter I want to use?
These are all questions I consider before deciding what I am going to apply. Two clients can ask for exactly the same lash look but require completely different extension diameters. Even two natural lashes on the same client can require different choices. That is why I don't believe in a “one size fits all” approach to eyelash extensions. A truly great lash artist knows this, and has been educated and trained to apply lashes accordingly.
Classic Lashes
Let's start with classic lashes. With classic eyelash extensions, we are generally applying one extension to one natural lash. This means the diameter and weight of that single extension are particularly important. A thicker classic extension can create a beautiful, dark appearance, but it must be appropriate for the natural lash supporting it. For example, using a heavy diameter simply because you want to achieve a strong black lash line can be a mistake if the client's natural lashes aren't strong enough to support it. Instead, I would rather create a beautifully balanced set using the correct diameter than overload the natural lashes in pursuit of a particular look.
Volume Lashes
This brings me onto Volume lashes which work differently. Volume lash extensions give us another way of creating density without necessarily relying on one thick, heavy extension. With volume, we create a fan from multiple lightweight extensions and apply that fan to one natural lash. This is where understanding volume lash weight becomes incredibly important. Just because each individual extension is very fine doesn't mean we can create an unlimited fan. A lash artist needs to understand the relationship between diameter, number of extensions and overall fan weight. A 2D fan made with one diameter will have a different overall weight from a 5D, 6D or 10D fan made with the same diameter. This is why proper lash education is so important as you need to understand what you are actually putting onto the natural lash, not simply how many lashes you can fit into a fan.
Don't confuse “thinner” with “weaker”
One of the common misconceptions I see is that a thinner extension is somehow a poor-quality extension but that couldn't be further from the truth. Fine extensions are an incredibly important part of a professional lash artist's kit. They allow us to create soft, lightweight volume fans and beautiful textured lash sets while working within the limits of the natural lashes. The key isn't whether an extension is thick or thin. The key is whether it is appropriate for the natural lash.
Good lash extensions should be bespoke, so, I always encourage lash technicians to stop thinking purely in terms of the “set” they are creating and start thinking about the individual natural lashes they are working with. Your client isn't just wearing a set of extensions. They are wearing extensions attached to their own natural lashes, and every natural lash has its own characteristics. That means your lash mapping, length, curl, diameter and volume need to work together. A gorgeous lash set should be designed around the client rather than forcing the client's natural lashes to fit the design.
Your client's natural lashes come first
For me, this is one of the foundations of professional lash artistry. We want clients to love their extensions, but we also want them to continue enjoying healthy, beautiful natural lashes. That means understanding lash extension thickness, selecting the correct extension weight and knowing when to say no to a particular length or diameter. Sometimes the most professional thing you can tell a client is:
“That particular look isn't suitable for your natural lashes, but I can create something equally beautiful that is.”
That is not limiting your artistry. That is showing your expertise.
Choosing the right lash extension products
The quality and consistency of the products you use also matter. As someone who has been working in the lash industry for many years, I am incredibly particular about the products I use and recommend to other lash technicians. I have talked about this in my previous blogs so I won't go into great detail about it here, but I have developed my own range of high-end professional lash products because I know how important it is for technicians to have reliable products they can trust when creating individual eyelash extensions. Whether you are creating classic lashes, hybrid lashes or volume lashes, having the right selection of professional eyelash extension trays, diameters and lash supplies gives you the flexibility to tailor your work to each client.
You can explore my professional lash products and find the products I recommend for lash technicians through my website. I have a vast lash stock of all lengths and thickness' along with some fantastic glues and liquids. If you fancy a look, click on the link to take you to my product page: Shop Now>
Lash Courses & Training
If you're reading this blog and feel you need to recap, or even start over some of your education surrounding lash lash thickness or lash mapping I'd recommend taking a look at my classic or volume courses. I have also created a fantastic online course solely on lash mapping which I advise all my students to take after their initial training as it delves deeper into the understanding of this topic.
My training is designed to help lash technicians understand not only how to apply eyelash extensions, but why we make the decisions we do. From classic lash extensions and volume techniques to lash styling, application, products and natural lash considerations, I want my students to leave training with knowledge they can actually apply in their lash business.
All being said, if there is one thing I would love every lash technician reading this to take away, it is this:
Never sacrifice the health and integrity of the natural lash for the sake of a dramatic lash set.
The best lash artists know that creating beautiful eyelash extensions isn't about applying the biggest, longest or heaviest extension you can. It's about understanding the natural lash, choosing the correct lash extension thickness and weight, and creating a result that is beautiful, balanced and bespoke to the client. That's what I believe professional lash artistry is all about.
Thanks for catching up with this latest blog, I hope you can take away some key pieces of advice to help be the best lash artist you can be.
Love, Frankie