Hello and welcome to the latest Eyelash Excellence blog!
A question I often see pop up on lash forums is "Why is my retention so bad?"
Over the years I've learnt there are many factors that cause our clients to suffer with poor retention. This blog will run you through all the reasons this could be happening, and how to solve the issue.
Poor retention is rarely caused by just one thing. So, let's delve in....
Most lash artists immediately blame their glue. Then they buy another adhesive. Then another. Before they know it, they've spent hundreds of pounds searching for a miracle product.
The reality is that lash retention is a combination of technique, preparation, products, environment and aftercare. Once you understand how these all work together, your retention will completely transform.
The process for great retention starts before you even pick up your tweezers. One of the biggest mistakes I see is rushing through preparation.
Natural lashes carry oils, skincare residue, makeup, dead skin and environmental debris. Even lashes that look clean aren't always clean enough for maximum adhesion. This is why I always tell my students that prep isn't the boring part of the treatment - it's the foundation of incredible retention.
I recommend thoroughly cleansing the lashes before every appointment, followed by using a professional lash primer where appropriate. Lash primer helps in achieving a faster attachment time by dissolving any left over natural oils, makeup residue, as well as assisting in raising the lash cuticle for optimum retention.
For clients who naturally have oily lashes or whose lash pH affects adhesive performance, my Amazing PH Balancer (Retention Aid) has become one of my favourite products. It helps balance the natural lash surface before application, giving the adhesive the best possible conditions to create a strong bond.
So my first piece of advice - stop blaming the glue, which is the first thing many lash artists do. Yes, your adhesive matters, but using the strongest glue in the world won't fix poor isolation, incorrect attachment or inadequate prep and aftercare.
I developed my Oil Resistant Adhesives because some clients naturally struggle with retention due to excess oils around the eye area. These adhesives offer exceptional holding power whilst still providing the performance professional lash artists expect. The key is choosing the right adhesive for your speed-not someone else's. A glue that cures too quickly can actually reduce your retention because the adhesive begins curing before you've achieved perfect placement.
Now, let's not forget to 'seal the deal', as I call it! One product I never want to be without is my Superbonder Rapid Cure.
This helps complete the curing process more efficiently while creating a more flexible bond. Flexible bonds are less likely to become brittle, helping improve overall retention and giving clients a more comfortable experience. It's one of those products that many lash artists don't realise they need until they start using it. Then they never want to work without it again!
After following all of the above advice, we then need to move onto client aftercare education. Once you've done your bit and the client leaves with great lashes, it's down to them to keep them that way! Even the most beautiful application can suffer if your client isn't looking after their lashes. I always educate my clients about proper aftercare because retention doesn't end when they leave the salon. Daily cleansing with a professional lash cleanser removes oils, makeup and debris that can weaken adhesive bonds over time. This is exactly why I stock professional lash cleansers - to help both lash artists and clients achieve the longest-lasting results possible. A well-educated client will always enjoy better retention than one who has never been shown how to care for their extensions. All lash artists need to ensure their clients know about cleaning their lashes after leaving the salon. If you want to go even further you can supply clients with a lash cleansing sachet to take home to encourage their aftercare. They'll love getting a little treat to take home. A lot of clients are scared to clean their lashes as they think this will 'rub them off' - but in reality, it is quite the opposite! I've also produced a handy little bundle that you can give to your clients to purchase, or as a gift, to help with their aftercare. It includes five sets (so, five clients worth) of cleanser sachets, foaming cleaner bottles, mini cleansing brushes and some mascara wands. If you'd like to put a smile on your client's face, you can purchase it here: Aftercare Lash Cleansing Bundle
This brings me on to talking about technique and this is something I tell every student. Yes - good quality products will enhance amazing results, but they cannot completely replace it. I have compiled a list below of the many factors that add to great lash retention:
- Perfect isolation (ensure you invest in a good quality pair of tweezers that suit your lashing needs!)
- Correct attachment.
- Appropriate adhesive amount.
- Proper direction.
- Complete attachment around the natural lash.
These are what I'd call the 'foundations' of incredible retention. When your technique improves, your products perform even better. If I could recommend just a handful of products to improve retention, these are the ones I reach for every single day:
- Foaming Lash Cleanser (for your initial prep)
- PH Balancer (Retention Aid)
- Primer
- Oil Resistant Adhesive (for suitable clients and environments, although glue recommendations are solely dependent on your skill set, speed and surrounding factors such as temperature and humidity)
- SuperBonder- Rapid Cure
- Gentle Lash Cleanser sachets (for client aftercare)
You can purchase these products separately at eyelashexcellence.com, but I've also bundled many of these together in my Retention Trio Bundle and Lash Retention Pack because I genuinely believe they work best as a complete system rather than individual products. Click here to check it out:
I don't want to turn this blog into a sales pitch for my products, but I have spent years researching and producing safe UK made products THAT ACTUALLY WORK! I firmly believe that the products I recommend are purely on the basis to support those lash artists that are struggling and looking for a solution. And, I have that solution. Retention isn't about luck, it's about education and knowing which products to invest in which will support you during your lash journey.
The lash artists who consistently achieve amazing retention focus on their preparation, technique, high quality products and client education. That's exactly what I've spent years teaching through my face-to-face training, online education and professional product range.
If you're ready to take your lash retention game to the next level, start by mastering the basics, trust the process, educate yourself well and invest in products that have been designed by someone who has completed many years of research and uses them every single day behind the treatment bed.
Because beautiful lashes are one thing, but beautiful lashes that are still looking amazing weeks later - that's what keeps clients coming back.
Stay tuned for the next educational blog!
Love
Frankie xx