Hello fellow lashers, and welcome to this week's new blog, where I talk about lash lifts gone wrong! We at Eyelash Excellence understand the horror when lash artists are faced with a treatment that doesn't go to plan. During my career of lashing and teaching - I have seen it all! And let's face it, an over-curled lash lift can be mega stressful for both the client and the lash artist.
Instead of beautifully lifted, separated lashes, the result may look too tight, kinked or uneven. Some lashes may curl back towards the eyelid, cross over one another or appear much shorter because of the intensity of the curl.
When a lash lift has gone wrong, the natural reaction can be to try to correct it straight away.
But before reaching for your products, there is one crucial question to answer:
Are the lashes simply over-curled, or have they been overprocessed?
Understanding the difference is essential because an unwanted curl and chemically compromised lashes require very different approaches.
What Does an Over-Curled Lash Lift Look Like?
An over-curled lash lift can present in several ways.
You may notice that the lashes:
- Curl too tightly towards the eyelid
- Look kinked rather than smoothly lifted
- Cross over or sit unevenly
- Appear shorter than expected
- Have a much stronger curl than the client wanted
- Look excessively curled at the base
An overly strong result does not automatically mean the lashes are damaged. Some lashes may simply have an unwanted shape while remaining flexible and in good condition. That's why assessing the lashes before attempting a correction is so important.
Why Has My Lash Lift Gone Too Curly?
There are several possible reasons why a lash lift can become too curly.
These may include:
- Using a shield that is too small or highly curved
- Incorrect lash placement on the shield
- Incorrect product placement
- Processing for too long
- Applying lifting lotion too far along the lash
- Incorrectly assessing the client's natural lashes
- Not following the manufacturer's instructions for the specific system
The shield plays a particularly important role in determining the final shape. A smaller or more curved shield can create a tighter result.
However, the final outcome is also influenced by the way the lashes are positioned and how the chemical products are applied and processed.
Over-Curled vs Overprocessed Lashes: What's the Difference?
This is one of the most important distinctions to make when a lash lift goes wrong. An over-curled lash lift describes the shape of the lashes.
Overprocessing describes the condition of the hair following excessive or inappropriate chemical processing.
The two can occur together, but they aren't automatically the same thing. Lashes that are simply over-curled may still feel smooth, flexible and strong. Over Processed lashes may instead appear or feel:
- Dry
- Frizzy
- Brittle
- Weak
- Kinked through damage
- More prone to snapping or breakage
If the lashes appear compromised, applying more chemical products to try to change their shape could potentially cause further damage.
Never assume that every over-curled lash lift should be chemically reversed.
Can You Fix an Over-Curled Lash Lift?
Sometimes an unwanted lash-lift result can be relaxed or corrected by an appropriately trained professional. However, whether a correction is suitable depends on the individual situation and the lash-lift system being used.
Before attempting a correction, consider:
- The condition of the natural lashes
- What caused the unwanted result
- Which products were originally used
- How long ago the treatment was performed
- The corrective procedure recommended by the manufacturer
- Your own professional training and competence
There is no universal correction method that can safely be applied to every lash-lift system.
Is There a Universal Lash Lift Reversal Time?
No.
This is an important point because advice such as “leave Step 1 on for 1–3 minutes” or “use half the original processing time” should not be treated as a universal rule.
Different lash-lift systems contain different formulations and have different processing requirements. If your manufacturer provides a specific lash lift correction or relaxation protocol, follow that protocol.
Do not take the corrective timing from one brand and automatically apply it to another. Likewise, reducing the normal processing time does not automatically make an additional chemical treatment safe.
The condition of the lashes must always be considered alongside the manufacturer's instructions.
Should You Reapply Step 1 to Fix an Over-Curled Lash Lift?
Some professional lash-lift systems may allow the lifting product to be carefully reapplied as part of a corrective procedure.
However, this is still additional chemical processing.
It should therefore only be considered when:
- The lashes have been assessed and are suitable for further processing.
- You are trained and competent to perform the correction.
- The manufacturer's instructions permit the corrective procedure.
- You understand the products that were used during the original treatment.
The aim of a correction is not simply to repeat the original lash lift.
Product placement, processing and the condition of the lashes all need to be considered carefully. If you're unsure, don't guess.
What Does Step 2 Do When Correcting a Lash Lift?
Step 2 is sometimes described as simply “stopping” Step 1, but this doesn't fully explain what is happening.
In traditional lash-lift systems, Step 1 changes the hair's disulfide bonds so that the lashes can be reshaped.
Step 2 acts as the neutralising or fixing stage, supporting the reformation of those bonds in their new position.
For this reason, Step 2 should be used according to the specific protocol for the system you're working with.
A correction is still a chemical treatment, so following the manufacturer's instructions is essential.
Can You Fix an Over Processed Lash Lift?
This is where it's important to be realistic about what a correction can achieve.
If lashes have been chemically overprocessed, another chemical treatment doesn't simply undo the damage.
Conditioning products may help improve the feel, appearance and manageability of processed lashes, but they cannot magically restore chemically damaged hair to its original condition.
The same applies to Step 3.
A conditioning step can support the condition of the lashes, but it cannot compensate for excessive chemical processing.
If the lashes are genuinely compromised, the safest approach may be to stop further chemical processing and focus on supporting their condition while the affected lashes grow out.
What Should You Do After Correcting an Over-Curled Lash Lift?
Aftercare should always be based on the system you've used.
If the manufacturer recommends a conditioning Step 3 or another post-treatment product, use it according to the manufacturer's instructions.
A suitable lash-conditioning serum may also be recommended where appropriate.
However, avoid promising clients that oils, keratin treatments or conditioning products will “repair” chemically damaged lashes.
They may support the condition, appearance and manageability of the hair, but significant structural damage cannot simply be reversed with a conditioning product.
How to Prevent an Over-Curled Lash Lift
The best way to deal with an over-curled lash lift is to prevent it from happening in the first place.
Before applying Step 1, assess:
- Natural lash length
- Lash thickness
- Lash condition
- Natural lash direction
- Shield size and shape
- Lash placement on the shield
- Product placement
- Appropriate processing time
- The manufacturer's instructions
Avoid using exactly the same shield and processing time for every client. Two clients can have similar-looking lashes but respond differently to chemical processing.
A good lash lift isn't simply about setting a timer and waiting for it to finish. Regular assessment throughout the treatment is essential.
What If Another Lash Artist Did the Original Lash Lift?
Correcting somebody else's work requires extra caution.
If another lash artist performed the original treatment, you may not know:
- Which products were used
- How long they were processed
- Where the products were applied
- Whether the treatment was repeated
- Whether a previous correction was attempted
- What condition the lashes were in before treatment
A client may ask you to “reverse” their lash lift, but that request doesn't automatically mean further chemical processing is appropriate.
Assess the lashes yourself and work within the corrective protocol for the system you are trained to use.
In some circumstances, the most professional decision may be to decline further chemical processing.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you fix an over-curled lash lift?
An over-curled lash lift may sometimes be relaxed or corrected by a suitably trained professional, but there is no single correction method that works for every lash-lift system.
The first step is to assess the condition of the natural lashes and identify what caused the excessive curl. If the lashes are suitable for further processing, follow the manufacturer's corrective protocol for the specific system used.
Can you reverse a lash lift the next day?
A correction may sometimes be possible, but the fact that the treatment was performed recently does not automatically mean it should be reversed. The condition of the natural lashes, the products used and the manufacturer's corrective instructions should all be considered before applying any additional chemical product.
Can you relax a lash lift that is too curly?
In some circumstances, a professional may be able to relax an unwanted curl using an approved corrective procedure. However, not every lash lift should be chemically relaxed. If the lashes are dry, brittle, weak or showing signs of overprocessing, further chemical treatment may not be appropriate.
Does brushing lashes make an over-curled lash lift go away?
Brushing may change how the lashes sit temporarily, but it will not chemically reverse a lash lift. If the curl is significantly tighter than intended, professional assessment is more appropriate than trying to force the lashes into a different shape.
Can you fix an overprocessed lash lift?
Overprocessing and over-curling are different issues.
If the lashes have been chemically damaged, another chemical treatment cannot simply reverse that damage. The priority should be protecting the natural lashes and supporting their condition while they grow out.
Can Step 3 fix overprocessed lashes?
No. A conditioning Step 3 may help improve the feel and appearance of processed lashes, but it cannot reverse significant structural damage caused by overprocessing.
How long should you leave Step 1 on to reverse a lash lift?
There is no universal reversal time. Processing times vary between lash-lift systems, so always follow the corrective protocol provided by the manufacturer of the specific product you are using. Never assume that a timing used for one brand is suitable for another.
The Bottom Line
When a lash lift goes wrong, the first instinct may be to fix the appearance as quickly as possible.
But the most important question isn't “How do I get rid of this curl?”
It's: “What condition are the natural lashes in?”
An over-curled lash lift isn't necessarily an overprocessed lash lift. Before attempting any correction, assess the lashes carefully, establish what products and processing were originally used, and follow the corrective protocol for your specific system.
There is no universal lash-lift reversal time that can safely be applied to every brand.
And if the lashes are already compromised, further chemical processing may do more harm than good.
The goal should never be to correct the appearance at any cost. The integrity and condition of the natural lashes should always come first.
Although we hope a lash lift issue doesn't happen to you, if you're new to the treatment or regularly performing lash lifts, you may encounter one of the issues above at some point. This is why it is so important to educate yourself with this blog in case it ever does. Please feel free to copy and paste this advice, or take some notes. I always find it really useful to have handy tips and educational content nearby that I can refer back to, even after all these years in the lash business.
Until the next blog, happy lashing!
Love Frankie xx