Choosing the right curl can completely transform an eyelash extension set.
The curl you choose isn't simply about how dramatic you want the lashes to look. It can affect the overall appearance of the eyes, the direction of the lashes, the suitability of the extensions for the client's natural lashes and, ultimately, how happy your client is with their finished set. This is why understanding eyelash extension curls is such an important part of becoming a skilled lash artist. I often see lash artists reaching for their favourite curl and using it on almost every client. I completely understand why, as when you find a curl that you love working with, it's tempting to stick with it! But every client is different. Their natural lashes are different. Their eye shape is different. Their eyelid, lash direction, desired result and natural lash strength are different. So, rather than asking, “Which curl do I like using?”, I encourage lash artists to ask:
“Which curl is going to work best for this client's natural lashes and the result they want to achieve?”
That small change in thinking can make a huge difference to your lash sets.
Let's cover the basics.. What are curls? Eyelash extension curls refer to the amount of lift or curve manufactured into an individual lash extension.
There are several different lash curls available, and although curl names can vary slightly between manufacturers, you will commonly come across curls such as:
- J Curl – a very subtle, natural-looking curl.
- B Curl – a soft curl with a little more lift than a J curl.
- C Curl – one of the most popular curls, offering a beautiful, noticeable lift while still looking relatively natural.
- CC Curl – more lifted and noticeable than a C curl.
- D Curl – a dramatic, glamorous curl with significant lift.
- L Curl – has a straighter base before lifting upwards, making it particularly useful for certain eye shapes and clients with straighter natural lashes.
- L+ Curl – similar in concept to an L curl but with an even stronger lift.
- M Curl – another specialist curl that can create a beautiful, lifted effect and is particularly useful for specific styling techniques and eye shapes.
It is important to remember that curl names are not completely universal. This is because different lash brands can manufacture their curls slightly differently, so always familiarise yourself with the specifications of the products you are using rather than assuming that a C curl from one brand will be identical to a C curl from another. This is one reason I always recommend lash artists become extremely familiar with their products.
When learning to lash, you probably wondered why curls matter. Choosing a lash curl is about much more than creating a pretty finish.
The correct curl should complement the client's:
- Natural lash direction
- Natural lash curl
- Eye shape
- Eyelid structure
- Lash length
- Lash strength
- Desired style
- Overall facial features
As lash artists, our job is not simply to attach extensions. We are creating a bespoke design! A beautiful lash set should look as though it belongs on that particular client.
If you choose a curl that is too straight, you may not achieve the lift your client wants. If you choose a curl that is too strong, the finished set may look overly dramatic, the extensions may not sit correctly against the natural lashes, or the result may not complement the client's eye shape. And sometimes the issue isn't that the curl is technically “wrong”, it is simply not the best choice for the particular design you are trying to create. This is why consultation and proper lash assessment are so important.
Before I choose my curl, I always want to understand what I am actually working with.
Look closely at the client's natural lashes.
Are they:
- Straight?
- Naturally curled?
- Downward-growing?
- Hooded by the eyelid?
- Fine and delicate?
- Thick and strong?
- Uneven in direction?
- Different on each eye?
The natural lash gives you your starting point.
Remember, the extension is sitting on the natural lash. The way that natural lash grows will influence how your extension looks once it has been applied. For example, a client with naturally downward-pointing lashes may benefit from a curl that provides enough lift to open the appearance of the eye. On another client with naturally curly lashes, that same extension curl could produce a completely different result. This is why copying another client's lash map or curl combination isn't always the answer.
This brings me on to talk about another important factor when choosing a suitable curl. Eye shape. There is no single curl that is automatically “correct” for a particular eye shape. I want to make that very clear. Eye shape should be considered alongside natural lash direction, eyelid structure, facial features and the client's desired result. I've compiled numerous common eye shapes below to give an idea of what curls may suit best.
Almond-Shaped Eyes
Almond eyes are often very versatile when it comes to lash styling.
A C, CC or D curl may all be appropriate depending on the client's natural lashes and the look you are trying to create.
The key is to look at the overall eye rather than automatically choosing a curl based purely on the eye shape.
Hooded Eyes
With hooded eyes, creating visible lift can be particularly important because the eyelid can partially cover the natural lash line.
A more lifted curl may help create the appearance of more open, visible lashes.
However, stronger isn't always better.
You need to consider where the curl sits in relation to the eyelid and whether the finished design complements the client's features.
Downturned Eyes
With downturned eyes, lash mapping and curl selection can work together to create a more balanced appearance.
You may want to avoid placing excessive length or weight at the outer corner and instead consider where your lift and emphasis are positioned.
The curl should support the overall design rather than being selected in isolation.
Round Eyes
Round eyes can already appear very open, so the curl you choose can dramatically influence the finished appearance.
A softer curl may create a more natural result, while a stronger curl can produce a much more lifted and glamorous effect.
Again, the client's desired look is an important part of the decision.
Deep-Set Eyes
With deep-set eyes, the position of the eyelid and brow bone can affect how the extensions are seen.
A suitable lifted curl can help the lashes remain visible and create a beautifully open effect, but the extension still needs to be appropriate for the natural lash.
C Curl vs CC Curl vs D Curl
One of the questions I am asked most often is:
“What's the difference between C, CC and D curl?”
The easiest way to think about it is in terms of increasing lift.
C Curl
C curl is a fantastic all-rounder.
It gives a noticeable lift without being as dramatic as some of the stronger curls.
It is often a great choice when you want a soft, elegant and relatively natural-looking enhancement.
CC Curl
CC curl sits between C and D in terms of appearance and is a brilliant option when you want more lift without going as dramatic as a D curl.
It can create a beautifully open and polished finish.
D Curl
D curl is where you start to get a much more dramatic, glamorous effect.
It can look incredible when used correctly, particularly when the client's natural lashes and desired style support it.
But don't automatically reach for D curl simply because your client says they want “dramatic” lashes.
Dramatic doesn't mean unsuitable. The natural lash still needs to be able to support the extension, and the curl needs to work with the client's eye shape and natural lash direction.
Lash Mapping
You've no doubt heard of L and L+ curls, which have become extremely useful tools for lash artists who want to create specific effects. They have a straighter base before lifting upwards, which can make them particularly useful for clients with certain eyelid structures or straighter/downward-growing natural lashes.
They can also be fantastic for creating a lifted appearance without relying solely on a highly curved base. However, these curls require good application technique. Understanding how the extension sits on the natural lash is essential. This is why I always encourage lash artists to practise with different curls rather than simply adding more curls to their lash trolley and hoping for the best!
Often, new lash artists don't realise that you can actually mix curls too. In fact, mixing curls can be a fantastic way of creating customised lash sets. You don't have to use one curl from the inner corner all the way to the outer corner. Depending on the client's natural lashes and the lash design you are creating, you might use different curls in different areas.
For example, you may choose a softer curl in one area and a stronger curl elsewhere to help create a particular effect. This is where lash mapping becomes so important. I have created a fantastic Online Lash Mapping Course where I delve much deeper into teaching lash artists about the importance of this topic. Lash mapping for me is a complete game changer for my sets. Click here to take a look at what the course entails.
Your curl selection and your lash map should work together. Rather than thinking:
“I'm doing a C curl set.”
Think:
“I'm designing a bespoke lash set for this client, and these curls are the tools I'm using to create that design.”
That mindset is a big step towards becoming a more confident and advanced lash artist.
Curl is only one part of the equation. We still need to think about the lash thickness and length. A stronger curl combined with excessive length or diameter can create unnecessary weight on the natural lash. As professional lash artists, we should always prioritise the health and integrity of the client's natural lashes. The goal isn't to create the biggest, longest or heaviest lashes possible. The goal is to create the best possible result for that individual client while respecting their natural lashes.
We still need to consider our clients preference on the 'look' of the lashes, so a consultation is absolutely essential. Two clients could have very similar natural lashes but want completely different results.
One may want:
- Soft and natural
- Classic and elegant
- A subtle enhancement
- An everyday look
Another may want:
- Dramatic
- Glamorous
- Very lifted
- Dark and dense
- A more noticeable lash effect
Your job is to combine what the client wants with what their natural lashes can safely and realistically support. That is where your expertise as a lash artist comes in.
If you are newer to lash extensions, it is completely normal to develop a favourite curl. But I would encourage you to challenge yourself, learn your curls, Understand how they behave and Practice! Look at how they interact with different natural lash directions and eye shapes. And most importantly, don't choose a curl simply because it is the one you are most comfortable using. Your client's lashes should influence your decision. The more you understand curl selection, the more bespoke your work becomes.
Before starting your next set, ask yourself:
1. What direction are the natural lashes growing?
Are they straight, upward, downward or naturally curly?
2. What is the client's eye shape?
Look at the eyes as a whole rather than relying on a generic chart.
3. What is the client's eyelid structure?
Consider hooding, deep-set eyes and how much of the lash line is naturally visible.
4. What result does the client actually want?
Natural, soft, lifted, glamorous or dramatic?
5. What can the natural lashes safely support?
Always consider length, diameter and weight alongside curl.
6. Does my lash map complement the curl?
Your map, curl, length and diameter should all work together.
7. Will my chosen curl give me the attachment and direction I need?
A curl needs to work practically as well as aesthetically.
In Conclusion
One of the things I love most about being a lash artist is that there is always something more to learn. Even after years in the industry, I am still looking at lashes, studying different eye shapes and thinking about how I can create the best possible result for each individual client. That is what makes lash extensions an art as well as a technical skill. The more you understand lash curls, eye shapes, natural lash direction, lash mapping, length and diameter, the more confident you become in creating truly customised sets.
And that's what I want for the lash artists I teach through Eyelash Excellence, not simply to follow a lash map or copy somebody else's set, but to understand why they are making each decision.
Because once you understand the “why”, you can create your own.
At Eyelash Excellence, I provide professional lash training both face to face and online, designed to help lash artists develop their knowledge, technique and confidence.
I also supply high-end professional eyelash extension products for lash technicians, carefully selected for artists who want quality products to support their work. I make sure my shop is stocked full of a huge variety of lashes and curls for every eye shape. Take a look at my lash range here.
Whether you're looking to improve your lash curl knowledge, develop your lash mapping skills, perfect your application technique or take your lash business to the next level, investing in your education and your products can make a real difference. Follow the link to take a look at all the learning avenues you can take with Eyelash Excellence.
As a master lash artist, competition winner and educator, I know how much there is to learn in this industry -and I genuinely believe that the best lash artists never stop learning.
Keep practicing. Keep learning. Keep looking at those lashes.
And remember: the perfect curl isn't necessarily the curl with the biggest lift.
It's the curl that works beautifully with your client's natural lashes, their eye shape and the result you are trying to create.
I hope you have found my advice here useful and take away some good tips that you can use for your future clients.
Thanks for reading!
Frankie x